A Monarch stops for food and the view at the top of Mount Magazine. August 1, 1997

Definitive
   Destination:

Mount Magazine
State Park, Arkansas

   Unfortunately, the trip was fraught with difficulties. For starters, during our first night atop the celebrated mountain our cabin was struck by a lightning bolt (no significant damages, however). Then on day two, my father was stung on the right thumb by a scorpion (fortunately he recovered after a day of pain). But worst of all for me, a cloud descended and shrouded the mountaintop in a chilly mist for our entire stay. By week's end we all were very happy to leave Mount Magazine and to return to our now much more appreciated home in New Orleans.

   Obviously, Mount Magazine was a big disappointment. But in late 1989, during a conversation with a colleague, the legendary "Diana" resurfaced. And so, just as soon as I could, in July 1991, I set out once again for Mount Magazine. EUREKA! My contact with the stunningly beautiful fritillary inspired me to launch new research. Between 1992 and 1997 I visited Mount Magazine on 16 occasions to conduct butterfly surveys (six of these were NABA 4th of July Butterfly Counts). Additionally, thanks to a grant from the National Geographic Society in 1996-1997, I was able to concentrate on in-depth investigations on the life history of the species. (All research will be reported in detail elsewhere within the near future.).

   Then in 1997, Mount Magazine hosted its first butterfly festival (see Butterfly Festivals, this issue), and during that same year, the Arkansas Department of Parks & Tourism assumed control of the mountain's summit to officially begin a program of development that will usher in a new era for the state's celebrity mountain. As "Mount Magazine State Park" the facility will emphasize nature-oriented recreation with a pronounced butterfly theme. And with the Diana Fritillary now protected, one of my personal "mini-cycles" spanning over 40 years comes to a close.

The Land
Mount Magazine rises to nearly 3,000 feet above the Arkansas River Valley of northwest Arkansas. Although generally considered to be part of the Ouachita Mountain system, Mount Magazine is actually a geologic monolith isolated from other high land by agricultural lowlands of under 600 feet. Mount Magazine, its two nearby sister peaks (Mount Nebo and Petit Jean Mountain), the Ouachitas (northwest Arkansas, eastern Oklahoma), and the Ozarks (northern Arkansas and southern Missouri) all constitute what geographers and geologists refer to as the Interior Highlands of the Midwest.

A weathered old cabin (left) and a shock of trailside wildflowers (below) define country style

Left: July 8, 1993
Below:July 10, 1997

   Approximately 7 miles long, east to west, and less than one mile across, Mount Magazine lies within the Ozark National Forest. The mountain's pinnacle is not conical but rather a tableland forked at its eastern end. This plateau measures roughly 2,200 acres (3.4 square miles) and lies between 2,400 and 2,600 feet in elevation. The actual summit, "Signal Hill" at 2,753 feet, is a knoll atop the plateau. (Mount Magazine has often been described in the popular press as "the highest point between the Appalachian Mountains of the East and the Rocky Mountains of the West." That distinction, however, is inaccurate. But the mountain is the highest point in the Midwest.) The upper plateau is rimmed by steep, jagged rock bluffs composed of conspicuously layered sedimentary sandstones and shales, gray to cream in color, dating back to the Pennsylvanian Period (320-280 million years ago) of the Paleozoic Era. The bluffs, some towering as high as 200 feet, resemble gigantic stacks of crumbling crackers. Many are crowned with statuesque weather-gnarled red cedar or serviceberry trees.

   The north-facing rim affords the most "Kodak Moments," although the vistas from the south rim are still dramatic. Winter sleet and snow storms, while teeth-cracking cold, often create a fairyland illusion that charms imaginative lowlanders. During summer and fall months, rock climbers and hang gliders practice their death-defying sports. All in all, Mount Magazine is testimony to the state's popular logo "The Natural State."

   Geologists theorize that the Ouachitas and Ozarks were once connected to the Appalachian Mountains of the eastern U.S. However, the connection was severed many millions of years ago. Today, unlike so many of the forested regions of the East, the woodlands of Mount Magazine are not tall, dark and dank. The presiding trees, shortleaf pine and various hardwoods (principally oaks and hickories) average only 40 to 50 feet in height on elevations below 2,000 feet. On the plateau, where climatic conditions are more severe, their stature diminishes to only 25 to 35 feet. Too, there is an obvious absence of ericaceous (heath) species, such as rhododendrons and azaleas, that are characteristic of the Appalachians. No permanent streams are found on the plateau, where summer and fall can be relatively xeric.

   Because northwest Arkansas shares an historical affinity with the Appalachian Mountains of the East, it should be no surprise that the two systems also share plant and animal species that are found nowhere else. Consider: The U.S. Forest Service has designated 39 species (22 plants, 14 invertebrates -- including Diana Fritillary -- and 3 vertebrates) on Mount Magazine as of "concern" ­ -- they are endemic, rare, threatened, or sensitive. One species, the Magazine Mountain shagreen (Mesodon magazinensis), a small land snail, is found nowhere but on Mount Magazine and is listed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service as "Threatened." Because of the sensitive nature of many of the mountain's habitats (and geologic features as well), the Forest Service requests that visitors exercise good steweardship. Collecting of any kind is prohibited without specific permits.

THE BUTTERFLIES
Butterfly Diversity
The long-term interplay between geography, geology, climate, and land use on Mount Magazine has created an ecosystem that is inordinately favorable for native flowering plants. And of course, where there are abundant sources of flower nectars for feeding and host species for reproducing, butterflies will abound. During my six years of surveys atop the mountain, I have recorded 91 species of butterflies. (The state's tally is 152 species: 127 residents and regular colonists, and 25 accidentals or vagrants.) Surprisingly, of the 91 species only one, Mexican Yellow (July 5, 1997), appears to be a vagrant (presumably from the Southwest). Therefore, Mount Magazine is home to 71 percent of the state's breeding butterfly populations and 60 percent of the total species recorded from the state. (I predict another 15 to 18 species will eventually be recorded.) Species composition is basically southern but overlaid with a smattering of Appalachian, Midwestern, and Northern elements.

   The highest number of species that I recorded on a single-day count (July 10, 1994) was 50 (average for six single-day counts between 1992-1997 is 40). The highest number of individuals that I observed on a single-day count (August 10, 1992) was 2,106 (average for six single-day NABA 4th Fourth of July Butterfly Counts between 1992-1997 is 454).

Butterfly Seasons
Butterflies take wing on Mount Magazine in mid-March. This is the time when the tree buds are just swelling and the forest floor bears only a thin, gauzy mantle of green. (The mountain lags behind the lowlands in spring growth by a full 12 - 14 days.) Although the landscape is still bleak, several species are beginning to flower -- for example, red bud (Cercis canadensis), serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea), American plum (Prunus americanus), rose vervain (Glandularia canadensis), wild hyacinth (Camassia scilloides), crested iris (Iris cristata), huckleberries (Vaccinium stamineum and V. pallidum), and several species of trillium. By the end of March, bird's foot violet (Viola pedata) forms strikingly blue checkerboard patterns along most roadsides. At this time butterfly numbers are low, but between March 20 and 30, 1997, I logged 21 species, the most common of which were Falcate Orangetip, Orange Sulphur, Henry's Elfin, Eastern Pine Elfin, 'Olive' Juniper Hairstreak, Eastern Comma, and Goatweed Leafwing. Only one skipper, Juvenal's Duskywing was evident. Although meager, the spring cadre of butterflies dusts the chilly mountain air with a tantalizing confetti of warm colors.

   Spring rapidly blossoms its way up the mountain. Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) adds its snowy splendor to the greening forest. Blue phlox (Phlox pilosa), dwarf larkspur (Delphinium tricorne), wild geranium (Geranium maculatum), blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium albidum) and spiderwort (Tradescantia) become major players on the forest's floor. Dewberry and blackberry are ubiquitous, providing excellent backgrounds for photographing flower-addicted butterflies, especially Pipevine, Zebra, Eastern Tiger, and Spicebush swallowtails, Orange Sulphur, Eastern Tailed-Blue, Spring Azure, Gorgone Checkerspot, Red-spotted Purple, Little Wood-Satyr, Carolina Satyr, Monarch, Silver-spotted Skipper, Hoary Edge, Southern Cloudywing, Juvenal's Duskywing, and Common Sootywing.

Clearly, male Diana Fritillaries (right) are from Mars while female Dianas (below) are from Venus. Now how do we get there?

Right: June 30, 1993
Below: Aug. 20, 1992

   Summer flowering erupts in mid-June. Species that are particularly attractive to butterflies include orange milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), ox-eye daisy (Chrysanthemum vulgare), lousewort (Pedicularis canadensis), mountain mints (Pycnanthemum tenuifolium and P. albescens), and tickseed (Coreopsis). Although the spring, single-brooded species of butterflies have now died off, the void they leave is rapidly filled by other summer-time fliers such as Coral Hairstreak, Red-banded Hairstreak, Gray Hairstreak, Silvery Checkerspot, Pearl Crescent, Question Mark, American Lady, Northern Pearly-Eye, Gemmed Satyr, Horace's Duskywing, Whirlabout, Hobomok Skipper, Zabulon Skipper and Dun Skipper. Male Great Spangled and Diana fritillaries now appear and often congregate on orange milkweed and purple coneflower. As the "dog-days" of summer set in, butterfly populations continue to increase. Female Great Spangled and Diana fritillaries now fly along with nearly 50 additional species. Occasionally there are population explosions of Eastern Tailed-Blues, Pearl Crescents, or Silver-spotted Skippers.

   With the approach of fall, the mountain seems to flaunt its technicolor residents. At this time I liken the summit to a magical garden ablaze with butterfly-studded wildflowers. Late August to mid September is "prime time" for butterflies. Virtually all multiple brooded species are now peaking and from mid-morning to late afternoon butterflies throng the wildflower bonanza of goldenrod (Solidago), ironweed (Vernonia gigantea and V. baldwinii ), thistle (Cirsium altissimum and C. discolor), sweet Joe-pye-weed (Eupatorium purpureum), wild ageratum (Eupatorium coelestiiium), boneset (E. incarnatum), asters, cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), blazing star (Liatris aspera), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), and woodland sunflower (Helianthus hirsutus) .

   By this time Monarchs are usually in full migration and pause atop the mountain to indulge in its banquet (during some years Monarchs begin appearing in good numbers by August 1). Butterfly populations remain high until night temperatures begin dropping into the 40's and lower 50's. By late October and early November the first killing frosts of fall shut down even the hardiest of thistles. Soon thereafter, all of the butterfly residents, except the handful of species that are capable of hibernating through the winter, disappear.

Butterfly Haunts
One of the most enjoyable aspects of butterflying on Mount Magazine is that one does not have to search out most species in difficult-to-get-to places. The roadsides, meadows, and relatively open forests are carpeted with flowering annuals and perennials that are particularly attractive to butterflies. Furthermore, the summit is a plateau encircled with a paved road and turnoffs that connect all modern and historic sites and scenic overlooks. One can hardly ask for more conveniences!

   For those more athletic types who relish hiking along forest trails, the Signal Hill Trail -- a one-and-a-half mile trail of easy grade ascends the mountain's actual peak. The trail crosses the plateau to connect the Old Lodge Site with the Cameron Bluff Campground. Along the way the hiker will encounter numerous plant communities and a potpourri of shade-loving butterflies such as Striped Hairstreak, Question Mark, Eastern Comma, Northern Pearly-Eye, Gemmed Satyr, Carolina Satyr, Little Wood-Satyr, Hobomok Skipper, and Zabulon Skipper. Upon reaching the summit, the hiker can rest on rustic benches while viewing the Bench Mark citation of "2,753 feet." Although the vegetation prevents a panoramic view, the trees are low and widely spaced. As a result, the forest floor is flooded with light strong enough to promote an extensive display of summer wildflowers. Pipevine, Zebra, Eastern Tiger, and Spicebush swallowtails, Great Spangled Fritillary, Silvery Checkerspot, Horace's Duskywing, and Silver-spotted Skipper can usually been observed.

Mount Magazine's hilltop meadows attract butterflies such as this Common Buckeye.

Right: July 3, 1992
Below: Sept. 5, 1993

   Three areas outside the circular drive rimming the summit (but still on the plateau proper) are worth exploring. First there is an abandoned rock quarry (now full of water) just west of the Greenfield Picnic Area. The grassy fields are excellent for sun-loving skippers such as Northern and Confused cloudywings, Common Checkered-Skipper, Common Sootywing, Whirlabout, Dun Skipper, and Common Roadside-Skipper. A well-marked trail into the forest provides access to other habitats that contain not only numerous wildflowers but the spring-blooming American plum, a magnet for small species such as hairstreaks and elfins.

   Second, another rock quarry is located on State Highway 309 south of the Greenfield Picnic Area and on the extreme southeast prong of the plateau just before the highway begins its southern descent to the small community of Havana. Like its counterpart to the north, this quarry is also water-filled. Butterflying here is excellent. The foot-path is in reality an old wagon trail that affords access to old homesites and hence, old gardens and fruit orchards -- a treat for butterflies.

   The third site is the East End Picnic Area, the site of an old homestead and family cemetery. The hiking trail that begins at the back of the facility is non-strenuous and usually flanked with wildflowers throughout all warm months.

   During my six years of surveying for butterflies atop Mount Magazine, all 91 species have been encountered on the plateau and during non-strenuous walks. Therefore, I recommend that the visitor in pursuit of nature's "dancing flowers" simply drive to any of the designated visitor areas, park, and then walk leisurely along the road to observe the true flowers. When sufficiently satisfied, drive on to another site, park, and repeat the procedure. If time permits, hike a convenient distance along one or more of the trails. I guarantee success!

TRAVEL TIPS
Mount Magazine is located in Logan County in northwest Arkansas. The mountain's summit is 22 miles south of Paris (population 3,800, elevation 425 feet) and 30 miles east of Booneville (population 4,000, elevation 511 feet). Commercial airlines and rental cars are available in the nearby metropolitan centers of Fort Smith -- 42 miles west, and Little Rock -- 114 miles southeast. The actual mountain is approached directly from the north (Paris) and the south (Havana) by a 28-mile segment of State Highway 309, officially designated as the "Mount Magazine Scenic Byway." Near its halfway point at 2,400 feet there is a USDA Forest Service recreational site, the Greenfield Picnic Area. At the picnic site, a paved spur, U.S. Forest Road 1606, takes off to the west to begin the final, twisted ascent of 1.4 miles to the summit. After reaching the plateau, the paved road forks to form a loop of 2.5 miles that circles Signal Hill (the actual peak). This loop provides access to the major recreational facilities and scenic overlooks. Immediately west of the Brown Springs Picnic Area, a non-paved extension of FS 1606 runs westward for 2 miles before terminating at the extreme west end of the plateau. However, this section is gated and closed to the public.

   For decades Mount Magazine has boasted a considerable number of nature-oriented recreational facilities, For example, on the mountain's northeast flank, Cove Lake (spillway elevation of 994 feet) is a well-maintained National Forest Campground equipped with organized campsites (no hookups available, however). A bathhouse (with heated water) and concessions (including bagged ice) are open between spring and fall months. Recreational opportunities at the picturesque lake include swimming, boating, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, and, of course, picnicking and camping.

Farther up the mountain there are additional recreational sites, but these are less developed. For instance, Greenfield Picnic Area and East End Picnic Area (Old Benefield Homestead) are equipped with all-weather tables and primitive toilets but no water or electricity. On the plateau, the Cameron Bluff Campground is available for day use and overnight camping. However, there is only a primitive toilet and a single water spigotand no electricity. The Brown Springs Area is designated for day-use only and is equipped with all-weather picnic tables, metal barbecue racks, and a primitive toilet. A network of well-maintained hiking trails links all camping and picnic areas.

   As the summit of Mount Magazine is developed into a park, facilities as described here will certainly change. However, because of the sensitive nature of the area, only three percent of the 2,200 acres atop the summit will be impacted by new construction. And 865 acres of that will have restricted access. As one might expect, an enterprise such as this is not without controversy. But with nearly 30 years of wrangling,: the project now seems to be well conceived. Furthermore, the collective interchanges between federal and state agencies, local citizens, and specialist scientistsincluding entomologists -- have reinvented the very concept of "state park." Al1 construction will be monitored for environmental impact and special seeding projects will be instituted to replenish raw land with appropriate butterfly-friendly wildflowers. In conclusion, I am confident that Mount Magazine State Park will be in the vanguard of the butterfly conservation and recreation movement.

For more information contact:
United States Forest Service
Ozark National Forest, Magazine Ranger District
PO Box 511, Paris, AR 72855
501-963-3076
or
Arkansas Department of Parks and Tourism
One Capitol Mall
Little Rock, AR 72201
501-682-6938

Pipevine Swallowtail A 3-10; Zebra Swallowtail A 4-7; Black Swallowtail U 3-8; Giant Swallowtail C 4-10; Eastern Tiger Swallowtail A 3-10; Spicebush Swallowtail A 3-10; Checkered White U 4-8; Cabbage White R 6; Falcate Orangetip A 3-4; Orange Sulphur A 3-10; Southern Dogface U 6-10; Cloudless Sulphur C 4-10; Mexican Yellow RS 7; Little Yellow A 6-10; Sleepy Orange C 6-10; Dainty Sulphur U 6-10; Harvester R 6; Coral Hairstreak C 6-7; Banded Hairstreak U 6-7; Striped Hairstreak U 6-7; Henry's Elfin C 3-4; Eastern Pine Elfin C 3-6; 'Olive' Juniper Hairstreak C 3-7; White M Hairstreak R 3-9; Gray Hairstreak C 4-10; Red-banded Hairstreak A 4-10; Reakirt's Blue U 6-7; Eastern Tailed-Blue A 3-10; Spring Azure A 3-10; American Snout U 6-10; Gulf Fritillary R 9-10; Variegated Fritillary U 5-10; Diana Fritillary C 6-7 (males); 7-10 (females); Great Spangled Fritillary A 6-8 (males); 7-10 (females); Gorgone Checkerspot C 4-6; Silvery Checkerspot C 5-9; Pearl Crescent A 4-10; Question Mark C 3-10; Eastern Comma C 3-10; Gray Comma U 3-6, 9; Mourning Cloak U 3-5; American Lady A 3-10; Painted Lady U-C 6-10; Red Admiral C 5-10; Common Buckeye U 4-10; Red-spotted Purple A 4-10; Viceroy U 5-7; Goatweed Leafwing A-C 3-10; Hackberry Emperor U 6-10; Tawny Emperor U 6-10; Northern Pearly-Eye U-C 6-10; Gemmed Satyr C 6-10; Carolina Satyr A 4-10; Little Wood-Satyr A 4-7; Common Wood-Nymph U 6-10; Monarch A 4-5, 8-10, C 6-7; Silver-spotted Skipper A 4-10; Long-tailed Skipper R 10; Hoary Edge C 4-8; Southern Cloudywing C 4-9; Northern Cloudywing U 5-9; Confused Cloudywing R 5-9; Hayhurst's Scallopwing R 4,9; Dreamy Duskywing R 4-5; Juvenal's Duskywing A 3-4, U 7-9; Horace's Duskywing A 6-10; Mottled Duskywing U 4-6; Funereal Duskywing U 6-8; Wild Indigo Duskywing U 6-7; Common Checkered-Skipper U-C 6-10; Common Sootywing C 5-10; Swarthy Skipper U 4-9; Least Skipper R 9; Fiery Skipper C-U 7-10; Leonard's Skipper U 7-9; Tawny-edged Skipper U 5-9; Whirlabout U 6-10; Northern Broken-Dash R 7; Sachem A-C 5-10; Byssus Skipper R 7; Hobomok Skipper U 6-10; Zabulon Skipper C 4-10; Yehl Skipper R 10; Broad-winged Skipper R 7; Dun Skipper U 6-10; Pepper and Salt Skipper R 5-7; Lace-winged Roadside-Skipper R 7; Common Roadside-Skipper U 3-7; Bell's Roadside-Skipper R 5-7; Eufala Skipper R 9; Ocola Skipper U 9-10

All photographs this article by Gary Noel Ross and all maps by Richard Hildreth